TOPIC:

John



I'm sure you are right and I'm certainly not going to get too worried about it I've got a good boat the foils are in good condition as are the spars and the sails, I'm sure any failing will be solely down to driver error!!!!

hello all
as my boat has come up in conversation a couple of times now I decided that I should put a photo album on the web so that people wanting to undertake a project could have a look and see if it was something they would be interested in doing there are some 40 photos from start to finish
we had to do everything as the boat was close to having to go on the bonfire and had lots of holes in the hull, rotten cb case and the decks were falling off.
www.cserve.co.uk/albgallery.html
regards

Chris

Hi Chris



It makes me smile with an imense sense of pride at your achievement, there are 44 pictures! They tell a wonderfull story. Is there any way you could put together some "words" describing the challanges and methods you used to TRANSFORM from start to finish?



Did you keep a note of the man hours that you put in and also the materials list? I know that once I start working on 435 I will have my work cut out, there are holes in the hull and it has no decks the bailers have been "pulled" out and the side tanks are rotten and once it dries out I will be able to tell if the wood in hull is soft or not. A winter project and a half. There will be photos, and hopefully in the spring a shiney "new" boat.



Derek Gibbon

Just to say "Thank you for posting that, Chris" and to second Derek's request.

Simple list of materials
1 sheet 6mm Gaboon ply for CB case 2 sheets 5mm Gaboon ply for tank sides and and bulkheads 3 sheets of 6mm sapele ply for decks and tank tops
1 board of sapele 16 foot by two inches by 10inches gunwales, thwart and carlin and cosmetic timbers and floor stiffners make sure when you order it that you ask for a plank with no short grain it will help
1 board of obeche same size as above for all internal structure and deck beams and stiffners in the tanks
Eposeal 300 5l for coating inside and outside of hull sp320 4kg for coating timber before paint and varnish sp106 5kg approx for sticking bonding and all associated jobs filler powders approx 5l paints and primers as required
hull and decks were painted with Car spray paint
I have no idea how long we took but best not to think about that and think about the sailing at the end might be described as a labour of love
give me a call if you want to chat
Chris
07941 301742

Chris

Dont forget we want your beautifully restored boat to go on the stand at next year's Dinghy Show as an example of what can be done - we have already booked its stand space

Jerry

There are so many variables....



At the Inlands (light as you'll see from Phil's picture) I had the mast foot back a couple of inches from max forward with masses of pre-bend. I also lengthened my shrouds to reduce rake.



My c/b is pretty much central, but there's an obvious relationship between the two.



No worries about boat speed - Monarch was probably the fastest on the water over that weekend and might well have won if it weren't for the idiot in charge of steering!



The tuning guides are brilliant as a start point, but you have to bear in mind that everyone is different - equipment is never the same as someone else's (even when it purports to be the same), and you (helm + crew) sail and weigh differently from everyone else. Therefore you need to develop those "standard" settings to fit your particular circumstances.



Boat on boat practice is a wonderful mechanism for improving things. I did some trial runs with Jean in the States last year between races trialling different settings through the wind ranges. It really did pay dividends.