TOPIC:

Hello,
I'm new to owing my own dinghy.
I have no mainsheet tackle for my old wooden Albacore, which I've just bought. There is one single block attached to the end of the boom, and a metal traveler rail which runs across the top of the transom.
Does anyone have any recommendations for the tackle ratio with this kind of set up. I was thinking of a 3:1 ratio with the existing block on the boom and a double block attached to the traveler. Does this sound ok, or too high?
Or maybe the existing one is correct, just a 1:1 setup with the mainsheet attached to the traveler, up through the block on the boom, and then to my hand?
On another note, what kind of varnish for a wooden center board?
Thanks for any advice.
Dave.

Hi Dave,



Welcome to the Albacore class! Anything you need to know post it hear and we will try and help.



Originally most Alb's had transom sheeting, this is a 2 to 1 rope going from the transom to the boom and then back again......



Then there was centre main were you had a 4 to 1 in the middle of the boom, using the traveller and a centre main cleat.



These day we have a split tail mainsheet were by we have 3 or 4 mm dyneema rope bent in half and sewn into the core by about 12" from the end of your normal mainsheet (8 or 10mm).



The tail ends then ties to about 8inches forward of the transom.



The other end then goes along the boom at the end and the middle and then down to a centre main cleat or ratchet block were your track is.



You could just keep your transom main at 2 to 1



Hope this helps



Phil

Northern rep.

Dave,



I am one of the few people who still has the main sheet on the transom, somehow I end up with everything in the wrong hand with a centre sheet. I'm sure centre sheeting would be better if you are happy with it, certainly a lot less rope to pull about.

Anyway mine has a 5mm dyneema bridle attached to either end of the transom with a loop tied in the middle (fold the rope in half and tie a fig 8 knot). You have to get the bridle the right length so the boom will come in to the centreline of the boat when close hauled. The main sheet is attached to the becket of a single becket block shackled to the loop in the dyneema. It goes round a single block on the end of the boom, back round the single block on the transom, and into the boat giving a simple 2 : 1 purchase. Tie a stopper knot about 4 ft from the tail end so you can retrieve the end if you accidentally drop it.

Wire the shackle pins, as they have a way of working loose at the wrong moment.

I used to have a 3 : 1 purchase as you describe but found it too much rope, which was also very heavy when wet and pulled the boom inboard when downwind in light winds. The block on the transom bridle has a ratchet so you can still handle the sheet when it's windy.

All the best

Steve

Thanks for the advice. I'll go for a 2:1 then, I just need another single block for the transom traveler by the sound of it. Preferably one with a ratchet.
Does this ratchet act as a cleat so you can let go the mainsheet? Or does it just create some resistance when easing the sail out? Or am I misunderstanding, hehe?
Dave.

Definitely keep transom mainsheets 2:1. 3:1 is *far* too much rope and you don't need the extra purchase for a 15' boat. A similar set-up on a Wayfarer was a total pain as with a 3:1 sheet, it was extremely difficult to ease except in a blow. After reducing it to 2:1, with a good ratchet block it was much easier to handle.



The rachet block's sheave 'drags' when paying out (unless turned off for light winds) and spins freely when sheeting in. As it does not grip the rope, it wont hold it 'hands free'. In moderate conditions it will reduce the pull at your hand to the point where, even using the tiller extension, you can hold the sheet in the same hand you are steering with without it affecting your helming.



The other option of course is to lead the 2:1 mainsheet forward under the boom and bring it down from an extra block under the boom to a swivel ratchet block on the aft end of the centreboard case cap.



Many people will tell you to modernise with a split tail mainsheet, but that *requires* a powerful kicking strap. On an old boat this may put stains on the rig it was never designed for. . .



Varnished centerboards and rudders are a somewhat less than wonderful idea. Traditionally foils tended to be painted white to minimise the risk of warping if they ever got left in the sun and for ease of refinishing after any damage. Its only with the advent of modern epoxy and two pack finishes that a clear finish has been durable enough for the rough use a foil gets.

Consider painting the foils.

Ok thanks again.
Regarding the center board, I was told it was sticking due to being painted and not varnished, so I stripped it down to the wood at the weekend.
Maybe it was the thickness of paint causing it to stick then, rather than the type of finish. I hope it's not warped.
Is there a specific type of paint I should be looking for to avoid sticking?

There isn't a lot of difference between paint and varnish apart from the pigment. Fresh 1 pack paint or varnish needs several weeks for all the solvent to evaporate and the finish to fully harden. 2 pack coatings cure faster and usually harder but are less suitable for substrates that flex and move. I wonder how much a wooden CB bends with two people hiking hard in a blow. . . A hard finish will probably crack and a soft one like spar varnish will chafe against the case. As you usually can't apply two pack over one pack without problems, you only have the choice if you've stripped to bare wood as you have done.



Sorry, not a lot of help, I know . . .



The other half of the problem is what the inside of the centreboard case is painted with.

Repainting the inside of the case properly is a right ****er. The actual painting isn't so bad with a radiator roller, but the surface preparation is extremely difficult even if you can position the boat up on one gunnel with the case horizontal in a well lit workshop and turn it to do the other side so you aren't working upside-down or on a vertical surface with poor access adding to the difficulties of the narrow slot. There tend to be two common and bad approaches to CB case painting - do nothing till it rots or slap another coat on with little preparation till it jams.



P.S. *dont* paint the board and case the same time unless you can store the boat with the board out for over a month!