TOPIC:

After seeking advice on this forum just over a year ago, I've now got a new-to-me GRP Albacore (a Speed hull). It hasn't been used in a number of years and needs a bit of TLC to get it back in order.

One of the bouyancy tanks was full of water and I notice where the tanks have been taped to the floor, the paint/gelcoat/tap has peeled away so that you can put your finger nail behind it. This photo has an arrow pointing at the tape/join in question, but not the actual split.

i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/rb_str...apes_zps04d375ef.jpg

Just wondering if this typically happens and how people fix it? Or are there other places I should check for leaks (since it doesn't have a bung I can't do the pressure test with a bicycle pump method)?

Unfortunately the owner couldn't show me how to rig up, so I was wondering if anyone has photographs they can share of the rope systems. The ones I need most help on are the jib halyard and strut uphaul/downhaul, as I'm fairly happy I've figured the others out. In particular there is what looks like a dyneema strop that comes out of the bottom of the mast that I just cannot figure out. In this photo the large circle shows where the strop comes out and the small circle marks the end of it (to give you an idea of length I think it is about 70cm long).

i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/rb_str...ines_zps8834fe6d.jpg

Finally with max tension on jib halyard (if I have it correct) and max tension on the shrouds, the rig still feels quite slack (certainly compared to my Phantom). How can I judge if I have the right lengths for halyards etc?

Thanks
Richard

The above is from Richard (rb_stretch).
Sorry I messed up the post when trying to correct it.
The second link does not work (my fault). Richard can you correct it?

There is still a problem with posting images to the forum, I have yet to find time to track it down.

Thanks John.

The link to the second image is:

i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/rb_str...ines_zps3183a98e.jpg

I first tried to use the tags and that created a blank entry again. Sounds like the tagging is the problem.

Photo below of the bottom of my mast (before I re-rigged it).
This is how most of the Speeds were rigged, although yours looks quite a bit earlier.

www.albacore.org.uk/alb/media/kunena/att.../ALB8126Shrouds2.jpg


As the luff length of the jib can vary significantly with different sails, there is no single jib halyard length. There are different schools of thought on the correct rig tension, with an older Speed, I wouldnt go for too much rig tension - as a guide the leeward shroud should be only just swinging in the breeze.

The only thing I can think of that the strop may be for is something to do with the dangly pole (jib sick up the mast).

Thanks John,

I've studied your picture and added labels as to what I think each control is based on the layout of my boat. The is one line I can't make out though, the white line just behind the mast. Any thoughts?

i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/rb_str...rols_zps07fc66d9.jpg

The white line is in fact the cunningham. The blue line you have labelled cunningham is the clew outhaul lead to the side decks.

You missed the pre-bend (ie mast strut up) next to the ram (mast strut down).

Well after a fair bit of work I went out for my first sail on Sunday. Glorious day and everything seemed to work. The Albacore seems a very stable boat (I was expecting it to be more tippy with the round bilge) with very predictable handling.

I definitely do need to work on the rigging controls. The worst offenders seem to be the pre-bend and ram controls. I have 4 to 1 and 8 to 1 respectively, with relatively straightforward control leads. The strut track seems to be reasonably smooth, so not sure why I need to pull extremely hard for anything to move. One possible reason is that the strut is quite short (only 25cm). What kind of purchase do people have on their pre-bend and ram? Should I increase the purchase power or look elsewhere to solve the problem?

Richard

I have 6:1 on both ram and pre-bend with probably the same strut size.
I find this is perfectly adequate, so I dont think there is too much wrong with what you have.
Perhaps you need to look at what your spreaders are doing along with rig tension.
If the spreaders are raked too far forward with any sort of rig tension you are going to struggle to put pre-bend on with the strut.

I have a 6:1 and 12:1. The RAM a lot more important if you have a soft mast, also if you have a stiff mast the prebend probably won't have must effect, except when used in very windy conditions, if you choose to use it!

Phil
A8152 Albaholic

I've got a Selden mast. I'll try and check which specific Selden mast it is when I next go down.

I'll also measure the strut as I think it may even be less than 25cm (photo attached and before you ask, I have changed the control lines to something more suitable).

I suspect a combination of short strut with steep angle and insufficient purchase are the problem.

Are you trying to pull strut with rig tension on, try putting pre bend on before tightening jib halyard.

grahamd wrote:

Are you trying to pull strut with rig tension on, try putting pre bend on before tightening jib halyard.

Not having used pre-bend on a strut before, maybe I'm misunderstanding the purpose.

My assumption is that the pre-bend is used when you want a flatter sail, but without the leech tension (a kicker gives you the bend, but with loads of leech tension as well). I can see this being required in very light winds and very heavy winds when beating upwind. Downwind you would want the fullness back (and I read it does allow you to square the boom more) which would mean that pre-bend would be off again. This naturally means you would need the ability to apply pre-bend on the course as and when required which I would assume also means the jib halyard is already tight.

That's the theory, so is that not what happens in practice?

You are correct in your analogy, if its not working you may have to look at your spreader settings and mast foot position. I think you have a cumulus, which is quite soft. A good starting point may be set the mast foot as far forward as class rules allow (3350mm). Sight the mast with the spreaders not attached to the shroads. With the mast upright with the jib up, set the spreader about 1" forward and 1" inch out. Then connect shroads to spreader. Your are looking for all the tell tales on the leach of the main flying at the same time in 8 to 10 knots of wind.

Hope this helps

Phil

Just a small point but you do not use the ram to bend the mast in strong winds - it will almost certainly be acting as a bend-preventer. I work on the principle that you ease the ram if you cannot keep the boat upright in the average wind speed (and put on more kicker)
PS whilst you are looking at the ram, check for cracks and corrosion on the mast where the ram is attached - I have had 2 masts split right across at that point.

Jerry...Just another small point, but there is the option to rake more as the wind increases, instead of piling on more kicker, this would keep your mast loadings down?

Rgds...